Floral shift dresses & ways to wear them

An "e-friend" of mine has expressed a like of floral dresses in simple shapes.

So she came to mind when I saw Princess Beatrice at the recent Epsom Derby.
Seems that Beatrice has lost alot of weight (& she looks wonderful for it), but she is also making better sartorial choices. This post highlights the ways you can wear this style of dress and the body shapes most suitable for it. Enjoy!






Notice that even Princess Beatrice's recent choices in headwear have shown marked improvement - phew....

Beatrice's floral shift instantly reminded me of a main line Dolce & Gabbana floral dress which Madonna wore to launch her first children's book (in 2003).....an outstanding choice for a children's book launch given her up til then raunchy reputation....



But you know what I totally love about this type of dress?

It would be totally appropriate in 2011 as much as it was in 2003. I adore clothes which have staying power. After all, that is the best way to get cost per wear (CPW) down. For me, CPW is the true measure of the cost of an item - in contrast to the outright cost of an item. I have written about CPW quite a few times previously. Its a gem of a concept IMO.

This Dolce dress was also featured on Claire Daines in Shopgirl (with Steve Martin) .....shown here with Bridgette Wilson Sampras (married to the tennis player & they have 2 kids).



It was also worn by Eva Mendes (the other women) in The Women (darned, I cant locate a photo...let me know if you can find one please).

May I digress?
Thank you...

If you haven't seen The Women - its a funny, uplifting, drama about women friends, featuring no men whatsoever in the cast nor in the extras.

If you love fashion, there is an opening sequence with Annette Bening (the corporate high flyer of the group) where she scans the women's Saks Fifth Avenue floors like a hawk with bionic
eyes - my role model.

It also stars Debra Messing, Meg Ryan, Jada Pinkett Smith, Candice Bergen, Carrie Fisher, Bette Midler.....



and a Birkin or two (thank you stardusttrailers)



PS: Both these photos are shot in Saks....a must movie for fashion loving girls!

Ok - I got too carried away...back to the floral simple dress.......

*Why does it work?

a) Eye moves up & down

The key (as my friend has realised) - when the pattern is busy, keep the lines & accessories simple.
That way the eye moves up & down with the dress.
And we all know eye moving up and down = lengthening & slimming.

Notice how Eugenie is cutting herself in half by belting her shift in high contrast colour? In comparison, Beatrice's lines are smooth up & down lines - much more lengthening)

If you mix a complex design with a busy print, the eye can tend to get confused and doesnt know where to look.

b) Waist emphasis

Lets face it, - emphasising the waist to create an hourglass shape is pleasing to the eye. If a garment (like this) can be make to show off an hourglass, then by all means, it a BIG plus!

* Body shape variations?

Flabby arms? - lower the sleeves
Winter? - long sleeves, wool mix fabric
Toned arms? - cap sleeves or sleeveless
Big boobs - lower the neckline to a scoop
Small boobs - Give it a higher neckline or perhaps a sweetheart neckline
Great legs? Turn it to a mini and/or with a split
Flabby middle (darned childbirth!)? Keep the fabric structured, add boning (dont use a soft clingy fabric)

*Occasions?

Evening version - amp up the heel & the satin & the floral, red & black maybe?

Work version - keep the florals a bit "corporate" (black/navy & white?), wear with a tailored jacket

Church version - with a cardi, in soft pastel florals or swap the florals for a pale lace (white lace is huge ATM thanks to Dolce & Gabbana SS 2011)...seen here.....

Year round? - absolutely, cotton or linen in summer, wool or wool mix in winter.
Keep it lined for work & dressy occasions, unlined for more casual occasions.

PS: Here is a SS Dolce & Gabbana white lace dress....a definite pseudo floral shift....TDF...



*Body types?

YES - Hourglass with a defined waist and especially if you are short waisted
Even a plus size can wear this, as long as she has a reasonably defined waist

NO - Pears, apples, thin and especially if you are long waisted

*Easy to make?

Absolutely! All the pattern companies do this type of style...

* Aussie stockists?

At high street level, we tend to see this style of dress at Review, Alannah Hill & Veronika Mayne.
At designer level, we tend to see it at Anthea Crawford, Perri Cutten & Collette Dinnigan.

Enjoy & please add comments especially if you already have a well loved dress like this or want one or simply hate this post! All comments welcome!

A line shifts - figure flattering

A friend of mine is an inverted triangle shape - essentially her shoulders are noticeably wider than her hips - she has ample boobs, small hips/thighs & (is lucky enough for) a defined waist. And she has 3 kids. Despite her heritage, she hasnt inherited the European hips & thighs - lucky girl! Did I mention she has fabulous legs? Why am I hanging around this girl? ^*$%#@(*!#@

Well one of her best clothing shapes is an A line shift dress.
Yet she refuses to embrace this look.

So I promised her some pictures, to encourage her to take up this challenge.....

A little background first.....

Before my time, in the 50s, with voluptuous bodies, voluminous skirts (& hair), the emphasis was on an hourglass physique and high heels - then along came a new decade & a new look.

Born in 1942, Jean Shrimpton caused a stir when she arrived in Australia for the 1965 Melbourne Cup wearing a mini - never before at such an event had "they" seen that - normally the women wore hats, gloves and most definitely dresses below the knee. Not only was Shrimpton's dress too short, it was also sleeveless, with bare legs and she wore no hat! It was scandalous!



Thankfully times have changed - this look is acceptable, in fact, unlike some of the weirdness we see on red carpets & the like these days, this look is always appropriate.

And its perfect for inverted triangles as it balances out the larger top half of the body.


Lets look at the details...

Waist
The clean lines (lack of clutter) at the waist help to create a lovely sillhouette. Think no tucking, no pockets, no belt, no gathers, no pleats.

Did I mention that typically inverted triangles have short waists? The lack of clutter at the waist is precisely what a short waisted (petite) person needs.

The added benefit of this? if (unlike my friend) you dont have a defined waist, or your waist has a few love handles, this look completely hides them. Perfect strategy!

Neckline
Jean Shrimpton was a stick and so a crew neck worked well - my friend has boobs - so my friend will tweak this by having a scoop neck which shows some decolletage (not cleavage, there is a difference and I like to think of it as "class"). You see, large boobs and high necklines can at times look like you have a mono-boob - probably not a look you want to go for.

Hemline
Works especially well for great legs or petite ladies.
Please use fake tan - no direct sunlight

Brooch
One simple piece to bring the eye upward to the face.
You can use this principle to bring the eye to any of your best features, buy placing the bling in that place of bestness!

Shoes
Chanel flat kitten heel slingbacks
Does it get any easier?
You can buy classy inspired versions at very decent prices.

Other
Simple, structured purse. Tailored dress watch. Please leave the Swatch at home.

Hair
Simple, it lines up with the whole look - fresh, not "done", natural.

Applying this to today - 2011 CFDA

I noticed that this look was replicated at the recent 2011 Council of Fashion Designers of America - an industry body of over 370 members that supports and recognizes designers of menswear, womenswear, jewellery and accessories in the USA.

Diane von Furstenberg (President since 2006) in her own design

Look at how she has added some shoulder coverage (she isnt 20 any more - great idea!), gave the fabric bling all over & an an underskirt to anchor the look.

Totally modern shoes to complete the look.
Chic at 64 years old.



Kerry Washington in Calvin Klein Collection

Shown here with Francisco Costa, the head designer of the Collection range, who has interpreted Calvin Klein's minimalist aesthetic in a way so true of the original designer yet still made it his own.

Kerry has small boobs - the high neck is totally appropriate.
Look at the hem - little feathers & it looks like the same at the back.

The moral here? You dont need to be Lady Gaga to make an impression.



Naomi Watts (fave Aussie), in Calvin Klein Collection.

Some have said this to too bland. I think the colours & the way it falls is perfection.

It simple & can hide a multitude of sins for a new mum like her!

Since this is a "liquid" look fabric, I'd guess the shapewear is well practiced & she isnt rushing out at the last minute to find an appropriate piece. She must have been a girl scout - be prepared!




The thing that strikes me about all these looks, whether in the 60s or in 2011, is their simplicity.
Maybe there's something in that idea!

PS: This style of dress is probably one of the easiest to make - if you can follow a pattern, why not have a go?

Then change fabrics, maybe even change necklines or sleeve shapes & with accessories changes you can create a myriad of different looks that can go to work (with a jacket) to to play (chambray fabric, Stella McCartney style) or out in the evening (sparkly tiny matt sequins).

Plus size LBD option

Kate Husdon is heavily pregnant (ie: plus size) and she is due in a few weeks.
This is how she appeared as a recent Chanel benefit in Malibu.
Totally breathtaking, yet totally simple & not costing a gazillion dollars.
Its easy to re-create this look - we show you the formula here.



Why does this look work?

Lets break it down...

* Nude pumps (leg lengthening)

* Black dress (forever slimming - & feel free to substitute navy, chocolate, bottle green, maroon, charcoal depending on your complextion)

* A little bit of leg to amp up the volume a touch - but even if the front split was sewn down further, it would have been OK as the fabric is light & floaty

* Arms showing, but again, a little more coverage would be fine if that's what you prefer, or a black wrap over the shoulders (in fact it looks like she is carrying a wrap). You could even have a trench with this evening look simply because its so simple.

* Simple clutch toning in with shoes (in harmony, not "matchy matchy")

* I can bet any amount of money, the foundation garments are top notch in terms of fit & she has worn them before & knows they work. No last minute shopping trips to buy invisible knickers or shapewear.....

* Simple, simple, simple - less is more. You could even add a necklace or bracelet & it would be classy.

* Confidence - ahhh, makes all the difference

FYI - the dress is Elizabeth & James (the Olsen twins younger more inexpensive line) - its the new Fall 2011 line. I am sure it'll be silk and would cost in the vicinity of $400-$500.
Amortise that over 5 years, 4 times per year - $20/wear & you'll feel fabulous

Alternatively - get a get a good quality polyester (yes, they do exist) from Lincraft ($5-$8/mt), hire a dressmaker (who can pattern make) & have it made for around $300. Amortise that to $15 per wear. A bargain!

A silk version would cost more but is anyone (but me) going to know that its not silk? Absolutely not!

Need dressmaker referral? Just ask me!