Pattern placement makes or breaks

This post will challenge you to identify the best version of a printed garment for your colouring & body shape based on how a print is placed on that garment. 

When you buy high street, usually the print pattern is placed differently within a style & within a size.

Why? Because doing it this way they use less fabric instead of waiting for the pattern to repeat on the fabric roll before cutting more units.

Expensive garments can afford to use more fabric to place the pattern in a desired spot for each size within the style and even between sizes.

Pattern placement will affect where the eye goes when you are wearing the loot. That means it will affect whether you look taller, shorter, thinner, fatter etc. 

Does the eye go to your face? your waist? your arms? your hips? your legs? north- south? east-west? diagonally? where else?

What do you want to highlight? What do you want to hide? Does the pattern work with you on this or against you?

The colours near your face should be the best colours for your complexion. This one is not negotiable. Ever.

SIA has photographed 11 of these tops with a view to having you assess which is the best for you and which is the worst.

You don't have to like the top or its pattern to do this. 

If you want, do it imagining the print in your best colour, then in your worst colour. Also consider the background colour.  You also need to consider the pattern & its placement waist down. 

Don't worry about sleeve lengths, neckline widths, hem lengths or whether it's lop sided on the hanger. Just focus on the pattern placement of the front.  

The best way to handle this is to compare the first two. The winner is then compared to the next one on the list. The winner here is compared to the next one. And so on, until an ultimate winner is found. Then do the same to find your worst pattern.

The beauty of this is that there is no copping out. Because every print placement is unique, you cant say that they are the same. There has to be a winner & a loser.

This is really important stuff - if you want to be well dressed, it's in the 101 category. 

What's your tee shirt pile look like?

What is this?

It’s SIA’s tee shirt pile.

Actually it’s one of SIA’s tee shirt piles. Don't ask. But all her tee piles look pretty much the same.

Qualifying for the tee shirt pile

To qualify for an SIA tee shirt pile, a tee must meet the following criteria:

* It fits me now. 

* I like it now. 

* The colour flatters my complexion. 

* It's clean & ready to wear now.

* It's not stained or looking like it's had better days. 

What does this tee shirt pile say about SIA’s style?

It says a lot, namely that SIA likes: 

* Clean lines & clean prints with some colour.

* Lots of white, white-white, never off white nor cream.

* Lots of navy.

* Not much black.

* Pops of colour in reds, pink, mint, blue and watermelon. Yes, watermelon is  different to red. The odd lime which I mix with red & navy, never wear alone.

* Minimal prints & mainly graphic prints including a mottled US flag tee. Can you spot it? Oh & a Mickey Mouse graphic tee in mint from Target is in there too. 

* Some spots, a few more stripes.

Note: A lot of these babies go together. 

Note: All these babies go with the rest of SIA’s wardrobe.
These are good "notes" because it’s easier to get dressed.

The funny thing is that this tee shirt pile looks pretty identical to the rest of SIA’s wardrobe.  Maybe the rest of wardrobe has more black/navy as SIA loves wearing those on her bottom half. Can you imagine how easy all this makes getting dressed in the morning?

Isn't this boring? 

Anyone saying "BORING"? I can hear you. 

It's not boring to me. Having a non red carpet life, I have always added jazz mainly with accessories. It's the cheapest way. 

The 80/20 rule

If everything goes together in your wardrobe, your 80/20 rules is likely to be an 30/20 rule or a 40/20 rule. Wearing only 30% or 40% of your wardrobe 20% of the time. That's a fabulous thing. 

Over to you readers

1. What’s your tee shirt pile look like? SIA would love to see a photo posted on Facebook.

2. How close does your tee shirt pile mimic the rest of your wardrobe?

[If you don’t wear tees, then substitute for your shirt pile, or your top pile or your dress pile. It's all the same really.]

Woman of Style: Colourful Elke

The scene is Coles supermarket at Carlingford.
Think small mall, small suburb. 

So when I spotted this lady, looking at chocolates of all things, I knew I would regret it if I didn't stop & said hello. 

People like her don't turn up often. In Carlingford.

Her name was Elke (please correct me if I have spelt it wrong). 

I complimented her on her hair & glasses & well, her whole look. 

Then we played scarves. 

She was wearing a finely striped silk in shades of mint, orange, taupe, maybe a bit of blue. 

She was wearing hers in the classic European knot.

So I showed her some variations of this.

1. One end in the loop, then twist the loop & put the other end in. 

2. Twisting clockwise v anti clockwise

3. Inserting the single ends east to west & west to east.

4. Another one which I cant explain but I will find the instructions for it & add them here soon. 

Since all of these were going swimmingly, I figured we could challenge ourselves with the "Friendship knot". It's so different as far as scarf knots go, I couldnt let a stylish lady leave without imparting that knowledge to her. 

And we did & it worked. But we were there a while making it work & the Coles people did keep a watch on us. Surely they realised by the end, that we were harmless? Surely?

Here is a Hermes friend's video of the friendship knot. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvlaVhScbT4

The photos I took show Elke keeping her friendship knot intact. That's a sign she liked it. 

Some photos show her looking at her left - that's her fending off other customers who wanted to go through our photography studio to get to aisles 12+. How rude! 

I took some photos, then Elke started to wheel her trolley away and I realised she had slung a handbag over her arm & I hadn't photographed it! So we went back into the Coles studio for more photos! The bag was a print fabric in a natural canvas with a thick red shoulder strap....in red. 

Elke looked amazing.

She had pulled together colour & texture in a funky but relaxed way.  

She was wearing basics in neutrals (even the jacket was a tiny houndstooth men's print) but showed her personality through the accessories. Down to the animal men's slipper with the red trim. 

Definitely blog worthy. 

It was no surprise that Elke was European - that's not to put Aussies down, but to say that we have alot to learn from our Euro sisters!

Finally, one of the best scarf tying videos from Wendy's Look Book. I never tire of this one and as we get new readers all the time, I am sure some of you may not have seen it yet. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaSrE1-xh_M

Finally, finally, if you see a stylish woman in your midst, tap her on the shoulder & pay her a compliment.  

Winter casual - let's class it up

Now doubt you've noticed that I gabble on about a jacket being the fastest, easiest, no brainer way to class up an outfit, no matter what you're age, colouring, shape or profession (whether it's CEO or CEO of the household). 

"Class up" means to look more important, to look smarter, to look like you have your act together (even if you don't).

But let's work up the hierachy, so we have the bigger picture. 

A tee is less classed up than a blouse.
A sweat top is less classed up than a sweater.
A sweater is less classed up than a cardigan.
A cardigan is less classed up than a jacket.  

Did you notice that the jacket is at the top of the food chain? 

Now, hopefully you understand that these are general statements - after all, I dont know you & your specific tee, sweat top, sweater, cardigan or jacket. 

This hierachy may be thrown off by:
* fit - so a sausage fit may be less classy than a slim fit & a slim fit may be classier than a loose/sloppy fit. 

* cut - A cropped denim jacket may be less classed up than a luxe cashmere cardi. An anorak is generally less classy than a cardigan due to its inherently casual style. A bomber jacket is generally less classy than a tailored jacket, because it's cut is inherently sporty.

* fabric - a sequin tee may be more classed up than an bulky cable sweater. Change the sweater to a cashmere version and it may be a different outcome. A mesh tee tends to be less classed up than a fine wool cut & sew tee. A puffa pretty much guarantees a non class act, unless you're wearing it with an Hermes scarf and expensive shoes & bag. Otherwise it says you are very relaxed and that can be code for "I dont care about me".

In case you're wondering, in general wovens are classier than knits. But because we are focusing on comfort in this post, I'll leave wovens out of the picture. 

* trims - for garments from the high street, those with more trims or bells & whistles (zips, contrast buttons, epaulettes, fringing, inserts etc) tend to look less classed up than those without. 

* colour - neutrals and soft colours tend to project class, while brights & dramatic combinations tend to project power rather than class. 

* colouring & body shape - put simply, if the item isn't in your best colour (near your face), or the most flattering to your body shape, you will never project as much class as if it was.

* style personality - sorry to disappoint you, but a boho or rock chic style will never project as much class as a monochrome or classic style. It doesn't mean you have to change your style (outside work hours), but it does mean that you may need to tweak your style by adding some classic elements here & there - assuming class is what you want to project. 

Basically, SIA's hierachy may not always hold true, but in most cases, it's a very useful guide. 

Finally, I am not suggesting you dress in this classy mode. I am just saying that if you want to project that kind of image, you need to think about adopting some of the indicators. 

So, back to the jackets. 
This is not about work jackets. 
It's about CEO of the household jackets - pieces you can put on when you're out & about to instantly class up your act.

What's between a cardigan & a tailored jacket?

Glad you asked. 

The answer is a knitted jacket. It has the class factor due to its structure & the comfort of a knit. 

Everything photographed was from David Jones for AW 2014. It's all now on sale.

Marco Polo 100% wool cardi
100% class. The best piece in this post
for an instant class lift.

Mint fringed boho top - not high on the class scale

Marco Polo, 100% boiled wool.
Also 100% class
Available in petites & plus size

Hartford soft jacket, minimalist &
100% class

All puffas say very little about
you being a classy babe.

This puffa is interesting though - not run of the mill - so has a bit of class for that reason alone. The large segments on the upper half/small segments on the bottom half make it fabulous for pears.

Gordon Smith jacket/bomber in a woven wool
Class factor - more than a sweater or a cardi

The Clothing Company, boiled wool.
100% class. Available in petites & plus size

The Clothing Company, boiled wool.
100% class. Available in petites & plus size

Nothing this open weave/textural in a bright
colour will ever be very classy

Oh goody - a puffa in a neon bright
with absolutely no waist definition.
A total class fail. 

A textured rain vest. Unless you're
wearing this with top to toe
winter white & an Hermes scarf,
this is also a class fail.

A soft wool jacket in a bumble
bee stripe is never classy.  

A Chanel style "grandma" cardigan
can be very classy. It can also age
you unless you know how to
make it more youthful with accessories. 

A soft cardi in a bright colour especially if it isnt
a natural fibre can be touch & go classy.
Cotton knits don't launder well
(they become white on the seams quite easily) -
while wool or cashmere last forever. 

A Yarra Trail wool cardi in an even knit
like this can be classy.
But not if you are petite or a rectangle or busty.

The rough texture of this Jump
sleeveless sweater takes away
some of its class factor. 

This baby is classy - cables in a
fine knit tend to scream class.
But in a classy way.

Another textured Jump vest - again,
about as classy as a sweat.

A zip & a shearing look collar.
More boho than class. 

The darker version of the above vest -
the one that  is about as
classy as a sweat. 

These type of loose cardis can be very classy,
especially in neutral shades.
Ditto waterfall front styles especially those
with length at the back.
But the class factor flies out the window
when worn by a petite or rectangle. 

Thin, flimsy & unstructured viscose blend?
Totally not classy.
The black is turning white at the seams. Even less class.
Loud florals? In a good quality knit,
this could be fabulous.
In this knit, if you want class, it's very hard to do. 

No, no, no. Class that is.
Not stopping you buying this -
just telling you
what it projects & it aint class. 

Despite the chunkiness in the collar, this
fine knit & neutral colour say class. 

Chunky all over, highlighting the
tummy (oh goody)
 in an oversize look.
Not much class here. At all. 

The Gordon Smith woven jacket - in an
almost bomber style.
More class than a sweat or a cardi.   

The chunky cowl neck takes away some
of the class factor here, but the
fine knit on the body
could redeem itself in class school.
The bottom half of the outfit will
make or break the class factor.

Summary

1. Everything in this post is from David Jones & available in most stores and online.

2. The pieces indicated as "classy" will run rings around anything you own that comes from the likes of Witchery/Country Road & everything else on the high street.

The quality is infinitely better, they will last forever (if looked after) and can be hand washed without worry.

3. In case you didnt realise, apart from the quality of the fibres, the pieces which pass the class test, do so because they are all basic shapes which are fitting close to the body. Nothing loose or baggy and 100% comfy because they are stretch knits. You can sex them up with accessories if you like, so please don't turn your nose up at them just because they looks "boring". 

4. The Marco Polo jackets come in plus & petite. 

5. If you are on the "wrong" side of 30 and you are whinging about your image as CEO of the household or the quality of the likes of Country Road or Witchery - then do something about it. 

Nina Proudman needs a colour consultation

Nina Proudman seems to have been wearing the wrong colours in the last couple of seasons of Offspring. 

She can wear whatever colours she wants waist down, but near the face, everyone has their best colours and it's their best colours that will make them look their best. So what matters for colour flattery is the shades of her blouse, jacket, necklace, earrings, scarves etc. 

Nina's best colours are COOL & CLEAR.
She also have a very low contrast between her skin & hair & eyes - so soft or medium intensity colours are called for. Anything strong, bold, vivid will over power her.  

Very simple. 

3 things: Cool, clear & medium intensity.

Anything else will make her look, ahem, not her best. 

WRONG

Mustard is too warm and too muted for Nina. Mustard is about the worst colour Nina should wear. It makes her look pale, drawn and tired. Maybe that's appropriate, given Patrick just died...

WRONG

Yellows & oranges are all wrong for a complexion with cool undertones. The off white s good, but the neckline is quite low so it doesnt negate the bad Camilla vest colours. 

WRONG, but....

The chambray vest here works - in fact, as long as the chambray isnt too yellow based, it will be a great colour for Nina. pity she doesnt wear it more often. 

The yellow top is warm, which is bad. However but it's quite clear in its depth and the intensity is right, which is good. It also has small stripes in warm colours, which don't help (orange, salmon). Overall, she can do better.  

WRONG

This Tigerlily jacket is way too warm & strong for someone with Nina's colouring. 

WRONG

The off white jacket/top is great for Nina's complexion. 

But that bright orangey red tank is a no go zone. It's too warm & too bright. 

WRONG

This henley has the softness which Nina's complexion needs. However it's too muted - there is no purity/clarity in the colour.  If she wants a soft pink, it's better to be a more icy or rose shade and less orchid-y. These shades also have less yellow in them.   

WRONG

The salmony colour of this mesh tee is very wrong for Nina's colouring. While the intensity is fine, the colour has too much yellow in it.  For someone with her coloring, this shade makes them look ill. 

WRONG..so wrong

 

This outfit is so wrong. The green is overdosed in a yellow undertone. It's also too bright for her soft complexion & hair. You notice the top before you notice her. 

As Yves Saint Laurent once said....

When the clothing overpowers you, it's time to change the clothing. 

Also the scarf is every shade of salmon, which is pink with yellow undertones. very wrong. To make things worse, the scarf has tones of beige/camel, more warm shades. 

For completeness, the high neckline of this top won't work on anyone with medium-large boobs. Most high necklines don't work for medium-large boobs. 

RIGHT

Mint green sings on Nina. It's cool & clear & soft. Perfect. 

Brighter greens like the next one don't work as well on her - too much yellow & too much bright. 

WRONG

WRONG

How about this green Oneseason dress? It's not ideal - the colour was tinged with too much yellow although it was the right intensity.

RIGHT

This shade of off white is perfect on Nina & it isn't distracted with any wrong shades. 

WRONG

This appears to be a cool pink with medium intensity - seems to work. 

WRONG

This look is so so wrong - not only is the salmony-taupe a wash out, the bright red camisole is too over powering for someone with Nina's colouring. 

Now let's move to the blues. 

RIGHT

A blue with as little yellow as possible is best for Nina.

Like aqua. Unlike Turquoise shades. 

This aqua is intense, maybe a little too much, but overall it's not too bad.

RIGHT, even better

This blue is great for her - it's even cooler than the aqua and the white in between breaks it up. 

RIGHT

This Tigerlily dress was great. Medium intensity, very little yellow. I cant be 100% until I see the actual fabric in natural light, but it does seem to have some muted characteristics - but that isn't anywhere near enough to undo the good characteristics (cool & medium intensity).  

WRONG

This colour of this henley is interesting. It'f the right amount of softness and it's cool, but its too muted. Not by a mile, but still too muted. 

Now compare it to the blue in the below photo - similar softness, also cool but totally clear. Now that's perfect for Nina. 

RIGHT

sort of WRONG

We love the off white jacket. But black is the worst colour Nina can wear. For anyone with her fair colouring it's too harsh. It's lucky she wasn't wearing it as a high neckline.

If you want to wear black & you have fair colouring, you will look much much better in other dark shades like navy or bottle green or chocolate or charcoal. Obviously what you choose as your black substitute will depend on your skin tone & colouring. 

RIGHT 

These colours are perfection. Clear, soft & cool. Even though the scarf technically is warm (cream), the varying tones of cool blues sing on her. 

Summary

It looks like the wardrobe department was getting Nina's colour right when the show aired for the first couple of seasons. But lately, her clothing has been very bright & very warm and/or muted in its tones. 

That's why she needs to see a colour consultant. 

Don't forget:

First: If you are wearing the WRONG colour, people will say:
"Gee, that's a pretty top."

If you are wearing the RIGHT colour, people will say:
"Gee, you look well."

Which compliment do you want?

Second:
If you love a colour but cant wear it near your face, wear it waist down, on your wrist, as a belt or as shoes. Easy.