Supersoft v Target - you get what you pay for

On a regular basis, SIA hears people say things like:

"I saw the exact thing elsewhere for half the price."

or

"They come from the same factory. They're the same quality."

Fact: Most people's powers of observation are not fabulous. 
Fact: Most people are glued to a small screen and can't see the details, even if you place the items side by side. 
Fact: Most people are so hell bent on bringing down the tall poppy designer item, they don't want to see the differences. 

So let's look at an example. 

SIA recently saw a "comfort shoe" at Target for $55. It looked remarkably similar to a Dianna Ferrari Supersoft version which has been around for ages for approx $110. 

So she put them side by side. 

1. The leather feels the same. 
2. The shape of the uppers looks the same EXCEPT for the toe area.
3. The bows are identical. 
4. The metal trims are identical. 

 5. The backs look the same.

6. The stitching on the footbed looks the same.
7. Both are made in Vietnam. 

8. The rubber sole looks the same thickness 

9. The tread pattern differs slightly. 

When considering the big picture, the only material difference is the toe area. The Supersoft version has been raised up by sewing an insert of leather which means that the toes (especially the big toe), won't create a stretching out of the leather in that area. 

The difference in the toe area is material. It's the difference between a $55 item and an $110 item. 

The big toe imprint is one of the commonest wear & tear scenarios which cheaper ballet/flat shoes will encounter. Supersoft have gone the extra mile to ensure it isnt an issue and their product lasts longer than cheaper versions.  

Whether that difference is worth $55 [$110 - $55] to you, is a personal matter. But please don't try to tell me that these are the same quality or because they may (?) come from the same factory, that they are the same quality. 

Unless you pick loot up on sale (and sale stalking takes time), you won't find quality at a bargain basement price. Because you get what you pay for. 

[PS: After this post was researched, SIA found Blue Illusion has a suspiciously similar shoe without the toe adjustment. Again made in Vietnam. Priced at $100.]

H&M Oz - the labels & the prices

Not all items at H&M are created equal. 

The quality (& price) differs according to the label on the garment. 

In the women's wear at Sydney's Macquarie Centre, the following labels were spotted at opening:


H&M - the black label - "everyday"

The trendy standard label is black. 

H&M - the white label - "classic"

The plainer pieces including the corporate pieces.

The Conscious Collection - environmental 

Each piece is 25% recycled product & environmentally conscious.
There was a serious rayon/lyocell/viscose heavy fabric content here.
In contrast, the main line (black & grey) tended to have alot of polyester. 

Label of Graded Goods (LOGG) - the preppy label 

Think Ralph Lauren. Apparently the
Swedes are into this.
Or think it will sell well.
I overheard an Asian girl tell her
boyfriend that it was the "Japanese" label. 

Like I said - think Ralph Lauren.

Divided - the black label - "youth"

Just when you thought H&M couldn't get any younger......

Divided - the white label - "youth basics"

The youth label on young basics - slightly cheaper than the black
 Divided due to the simpler nature of the clothes

+ - the plus size label

Unfortunately, most of this was straight up & down tops & peasant tops.
Plus some jeans. Nothing A line. 

Designer collaborations - have their own labels. 

Hopefully we'll see lots of those in due course, starting with Alexander Wang in early November. 

Special promotions 

Prices

The youth labels are distinctly cheaper than the main line H&M labels.

I'd say the main line quality (grey & black labels) is roughly equivalent in quality to Zara's TRF label. The mantra "you get what you pay for" is the rule of the day. 

The prices of the labels are roughly in line from most expensive to less expensive in the order listed. 

  
Enjoy! 

My wish for you...

This post is using ballet flats as an example. 

But the post can apply to anything really. 

I am not just talking about shoes, be they loafers or heels or sandals or pumps. 

Nor just clothing or accessories. But any item of white goods or garden thingey or car thingey. Or any thingey. 

Hopefully you've just noticed my extra articulate way with stuff in the garden or the garage. I am very good like that.

Let's set the scene.

You've been looking at ballet flats.
The high street is on sale so the $200 flat is now $120. That's 40% off.

What I wish for you is a better quality item than you envisaged, at a price that competes with the high street.

But for this wish to work, you need to ignore the fact that the high street ballet shoe have gone on sale. That's code for the reduced high street price will not become your new benchmark for what you are willing to pay for ballet flats. You need instead, to focus on the better quality item and it's long term value, rather than any short term prices. 

You see I know you can afford the high street price of $200.
How do I know?
From years of dealing with Western women & their wardrobes. See, you're not destitute, you're not living on a park bench. You probably have a family, children, a mortgage.

I am sure you can pinch $20 here & there, so that you could still pay $200 if the sale hadn't occurred. 

The only reason you didn't is because you CHOSE to shop on sale. You've been conditioned, by all sorts of things, to think cheaper is better. 

Reasons, eh?

* Australians in general dont value spending money on image (say compared to the Europeans, where part of a girls upbringing is to learn how to look good)
* Aussies & Americans tend to value quantity (turnover) over quality compared to the Europeans
* Fast fashion has just taken a foothold in Australia & Aussies are still enjoying the ride.
* Spending on personal items like clothing is viewed as frivolous and unimportant.
* The sales are on so often that you deserve the reduced price or would be a fool to pay RRP.

As a result, it's easy to re-direct your clothing budget to something else - the cars, the holidays, the kids, the investment property, entertainment & experiences. 

On the wrong side of 30:

But now, on the wrong side of 30 (you & me both sister!), cheaper is generally not better. Because you can only look so good when you are older, with cheap clothes. 

Don't take this & go on a downer, but when your "young & beautiful", your youth & beauty can carry most things. Including cheap clothes.  

So back to the wish....when the better brand gets reduced, I wish for you to grab it & hold tight. After all, it's within ball park of the original high street price, if not cheaper. 

Did I mention, grab it & hold for dear life? 

Here, the better quality is a David Jones Milana flat, original price was $250, now reduced to $175. They are made in Italy, they are sturdy & stand upright. 

It's no surprise that $175 is within the original high street range of $200. If you start looking for reductions on the better brands, you will find them. I promise you that.  

Unlike the made in China/India cheapies at Wittner, Nine West & Aldo, where the sides fall down & scrape the ground or your toes distort the outer layer due to poor lining. Or no lining. 

Out comes the calculator. The current reduction is 30% off.
If you are not experienced with how stock moves & the pace of further reductions, take the current price & watch what happens next. 

Because a good quality piece at 30% off is much better value than no piece at 50% off. Something about a bird in the hand comes to mind. 

As you go along, you will get a much better feel for whether to take it now or wait another week or two or three. You also get a better feel for where to spot the quality brands - because it's certainly not in the cheap & cheerful stores you have been frequenting up til now.  It could be pre loved, on line, certain stores in certain suburbs, swap groups, etc etc. 

My Armani experience:

A good example for me is jackets. I am a jacket nut. Out of the house, I wear them all the time. But I would never ever touch a high street jacket any more & havent for many years. I go straight to ebay & buy pre-loved Armani black label. I know how it fits, I know the styles, I know it will love me as much as I love it. This isnt knowledge I was born with - I learnt it over time. So if the Witchery jacket is $250 or the Saba jacket is $400, the Armani RRP is $2K & I score it for (usually) less than $120. Including shipping. No guesses for which one looks amazing forever & which one looks like crapola after a season.   

Get out of your comfort zone or go backwards: 

Alot of women I have met, don't want to go out of their comfort zone & search new, better quality stores. Yet they whinge (all the time) about how unhappy they are with the high street offerings. When I see these women, (who I know enjoy shopping), there is nothing I can say to them, other than hire me to do it for you, or keep quiet if you don't take my suggestions. Harsh? What would you say after making the same suggestions time & time again and hearing the same complaints.  

Quality feeds your confidence

If none of this has convinced you, quality speaks volumes. It says more about who you are & what you stand for than most of the things you actually say. If you buy quality, you will look better & you will feel better. Your confidence will grow and you will be more effective in all areas of life as a result. If that doesn't convince you, nothing will. 

A tale of two leather jackets - Zara

This blog is about understanding the differences in quality between garments. 

I've used two leather jackets from Zara as the two garments which we will look at.

The blog post will help you to understand how a brand produces an item at different price points, in order to appeal to different demographics of customers. 

Make no mistake that those differences in prices translate to differences in quality.

And so this blog post commences.

Zara has two black leather jackets (amongst others):

# 1:  Zara Woman $359
# 2:  Zara Basic $199

Country of origin:

Notice the Basic jacket is Made in China, while the Woman jacket is Made in Morocco. You may think the hourly wage in those countries doesnt differ by alot, but there is definitely a difference - and that is reflected in the price.

Front:

So here is the Zara Basic jacket:

& here is the Zara Woman jacket:

Notice the leather looks smoother, softer and more even on the surface of the Zara Woman jacket? 

Shoulders:

Also its shoulders have padding, the seams look more defined....the Basic jacket leather looks stiffer, more plastic-y & has no padding at the shoulders....

The padding gives the Woman jacket more edge and interest. 

Cuffs:

Look at the cuffs - the Woman jacket has the padded stitching, the Basic jacket has a flimsy rolled over edge. 

Torso:

Look at the body/hips of the jackets.

There is extra detail on the Woman jacket - the padding, the buckles, the more substantial zipper pulls.

The Basic jacket just looks more wrinkly and the stitching itself creates wrinkles along the stitching lines.

Collars:

Now look at the collars:

The Woman jacket has straight seams, straight edges and the selvages (the leather bits tucked into the seams) are even & not rippling. It looks like it is made with a fine hand.

The Basic jacket is has lumpy edges - the selvages are uneven. The seams are not straight and it looks like it is made very roughly.

The back:

Look at the backs - the Basic jacket is bunching at the arm holes. The leather is hard looking and wrinkly.

The Woman jacket looks much smoother - the seams are flat at the shoulders, arms and the torso. 

It has a horizontal seam at the shoulders which helps it to sit flat.

It also has a circular seam at the bottom which acts as darts & gives it more shape.

In contrast, the Basic jacket has horizontal seams which wont hug the body as well.

The seams:

Now look at the actual seams....on the Basic jacket....crooked, lumpy...eeeww...

more seams on the Basic jacket..... same, crooked, lumpy etc....

then look at the Woman jacket - straight, even, LIKE!

Are you paying for the name?

In my (fashion) travels, I hear so many people turn their nose up at designer goods on the basis that they are too expensive, saying "all you're paying is for the name" and that a cheaper item "is just as good".

Seriously folks, yes, there is some payment for the name - that's where the design house makes a return on the fact that it came up with a unique design, something original that leads rather than follows the trends. Yes, with that comes some advertising. Lets just accept that & move on.

The moral: The extra quality that comes with extra cost

The other component of the extra price includes a higher cost for better fabric & trims, a higher cost for better skilled labour with better production machinery. The more expensive item also had a more skilled production sample team - where it had a gazillion more fittings with the fit model and re-made the pattern until it fit well. The quality control is also far better in the more expensive garment - eg: crooked and lumpy seams are sent back to the maker, they dont make it to the retail floor. Its these type of reasons that the Zara Woman jacket is more expensive than the Basic jacket.

In Zara's case, the crooked & lumpy seam version did make it to the floor, as a cheaper item - its a deliberate business tactic to entice a less cashed up customer to shop there (in addition to the customer who is able to afford $359 for a jacket).

If you're not in the biz and you dont sew, you may find it difficult to hone in on these these types of differences when you examine a garment alone. A side by side comparison makes it easier to see.

Train yourself to identify differences in quality 

The other way to train yourself to identify these differences is to go into expensive stores and try on the good stuff. There is no need to buy. Just try on. Its probably easier to do this in the department stores than the boutiques - but its the quickest way to get an education about a good quality garment.

What's the point of that?

When you are shopping (whether its at the store or at a warehouse sale), you are in a better position to identify the best quality you can afford.

What if you cant afford the expensive version?

Ultimately you may not be able to afford the more expensive version of a dress or a jacket or whatever. 

I am certainly not advocating you forgo necessities to buy expensive frocks nor am I suggesting you re-prioritise what's important to you to buy frocks. 

 

What I hope I have done is give you some tips so that at whatever price point you are comfortable with, you have better knowledge to help you identify the best quality possible.

So if you examine the cheaper Zara Basic jacket & decide that its not worth the price point, you have more confidence to walk out without buying & go looking elsewhere....

Does that make sense? 

I hope so - this sort of stuff will help you develop a better wardrobe and be better dressed as a result.

Jacqui E - 3 piece suit offer $199

The above Jacqui E advertisement recently caught my eye. It was on the back cover of one of the Sunday Sydney newspapers style magazines.


I could not locate a PDF version on Google or on the company site, so I photographed the back of the magazine & uploaded it....where there's a will, there's a way...



Basically the offer is a 3 piece suit for $199AU - so that's a jacket, skirt & pants.



However you cant just choose any Jacqui E suit - the offer applies to suits from a selected range - which seems to be the "Ariel" range. 


The pre-offer prices of the Ariel collection are:
jackets - 230
pants - 120
skirts - 120 
total = $470


Wow! Now the offer sounds terrific - that's about 60% off (without a calculator!)



Now, Jacqui E arent stupid - they're running a business to make money and they arent going to give away their best quality wool suits at such a crazy price. In fact, the Ariel range looks to be a polyester/viscose/elastene blend. So if you treat this suit harshly, my bet is, it wont last long looking fabulous. As a lower priced suit, you have to be more careful how you treat it, than if you had invested in a more expensive suit.

So how do you make this $199 suit look like a million bucks (well, figuratively speaking)?

1. Dry clean all the three pieces together, so you dont get the fabrics of each piece fading at different rates.


2. Use Jacqui E's alterations place to make sure the sleeves end just below your wrist bone. There is nothing more obviously unfinished than cuffs tucked under with pressing seams trying to keep them in place.



3. Use Jacqui E's alterations place to lift the skirt hem to the best length for you, bearing in mind the official and unofficial dress code of your office. 


4. Never wear the pants or the skirt two days in a row as this places too much pressure on the seams & doesnt give the fibres enough time between wears to relax and fall back into place. 


5. Try not to wear the jacket more than two days in a row for the same reason as # 4. 

Spend some time thinking of how other things in your closet can substitute for the jacket, for the days when the jacket has a day off. This is shopping your closet.


6. When you take if off at the end of the day, hang all the pieces up (dont leave them draped over a chair or lying flat)...hanging them will ensure the creases fall out faster.


7. When you are deciding on the size to purchase, if any aspect of the jacket is pulling over your body, go up a size and have alterations take it in. Each piece should have enough room for you to insert a finger between the garment and your inner layer.


When you are deciding on the size to purchase, bring the typical inner layer you will wear with it, for the above purpose (eg: skivvy, blouse, sweater)

8. When you look at the skirt, you'll notice the back vent is overlapped, not edge to edge. That's a terrific feature that helps to keep the split well, unsplitted....nice one Jacqui E!

In case you're wondering - you'll recall that I constantly talk about cost per wear (CPW) and to always buy the best quality you can afford for core pieces (like suiting). Well, in case you cant afford to spend more and you do take advantage of this offer, I dont want you flogging this suit - be kind, be gentle and that's how this one will last the distance.

Is designer better?

Everyone who knows me knows that I am mad about fashion & all things related.

But if I had a dollar for every person who said to me that designer clothes are the same as non designer and you are really only paying for the name, I would be very very rich.

Today I was reminded of just how amazingly better made a designer piece is than "ordinary" clothing. It happened when I saw a detailed shot of a Stella McCartney collection SS 2012 which I had previously seen (in many, many, many) versions on celebrities.

Here are various runway shots....



Now for some celebrity shots.....



and more.....



and more.....





Now lets go to the detailed shots......









This isnt a dress with a print whose fabric was laid flat, cut & sewn.

Its a dress combining various prints of fabric, mesh & lace, strategically placed.



The fabric/mesh is thick so it shaves away any lumps & bumps from a woman's body.



It is moulded to a fit models body - that's a serious amount of fittings and work to get all the bits to sit in the right place to flatter body as well as to look good.



See the trims - the elastics which add texture and depth to the close up photos? They are all specially made, just like the fabric. That's serious work with the fabric mills to ensure the fabric looks and feels right so the design is in accordance with the designer's idea.



The makers are not only experienced, but experienced with good quality garments and techniques - they are not just typical seamstresses.



Frankly I love the work & the detail that goes into designer garments. They produce a better fit than you could ever imagine because of this.

Of course, this costs money to buy.



These Stella dresses cost upwards of $2,000 USD at full retail. Of course there is sale time at the end of the season & 2nd hand time after the season is over.....



So are they worth it?



Ultimately its about priorities.



Do you value the quality and look of the designer garment to forgo something else to obtain it?



Or would you prefer your houses, children, your holidays and sporting activities and wining/dining instead?



I know what my answer is.....no competition, hands down.....


PS: I cant wait to see the high street version of these frocks....just so I could have a bit of a laugh.....

Cue inspired by Dries Van Noten

Cue inspired by Dries Van Noten

Look!

Cue AW 2012

These Cue clutches are designed by Peter Lang for Cue, $210 & $215 respectively,



Now, see anything familiar with.......

Dries Van Noten SS 2009







The Dries bags would have had a price point close to $1K.
I guess its a matter of weighing up quality/originality v price.

Getting back to the comparison, sure the materials differ (leather v cloth), even the actual embellishments differ (leather v sequins), but the idea and the concept is the same.

Enjoy!

Zara - replenishing stock - sizes

If you're looking for specific sizes in specific Zara stock and you've been keeping an eye out for weeks, read this post. You may be better off using your overseas contacts to buy from the US site - my story follows.....

My little Zara spy in the Sydney store indicated that the Sydney store is now receiving 5 shipments a week due to he tremendous demand - "everything Spain can push out" was specifically quoted. I have previously quoted this in this blog.

Well, I was looking for a Large (in the Sydney store) of the following blazer for close to 6 weeks now....




This baby is 100% cotton pique, fully lined, in the right shade of fuschia for my complexion (cool undertones). Thrilled & definitely stalking it.

I love the faux buttonholes on the cuffs.



I love the pin stitching on the lapels - whilst these are done by machine (not by hand), its a sign of a better quality garment.

These are all designer details - you dont normally see them on the Aussie high street at the likes of Witchery, Country Road, Portmans, Sportsgirl etc.



It just has a lovely line -

* waist definition to give an hour glass look and reduce my pear shape
* a structured classic look in the shoulders & lapels but not exaggerated
* flexibility - good for work (navy or black pencil skirt or pants) or play (white pants, denim).

There has also been a camel version - identical, other than colour which is a hospital colour for me. Recently I saw a taupe almost linen version too, also in cotton & the same in other respects. Another hospital colour for moi.

The pink beauty is $139AU
On the US web site its $US99.

Here's where my story gets really sad....wwaaaaaahhhhh!



Out of maybe 50 items of this pink jacket that I have seen come into the Sydney store (this is a conservative estimate as I havent stalked the store every day) since it opened in April, only one has been a Large (Note to self: buy it next time), but plenty of XS, XL, a few M, a few Smalls.

Note: Since the Sydney store is so busy, the staff have been instructed not to take phone queries about stock and sizing & deliveries. That's understandable. Frustrating but understandable.

So unless you work in the city or are in there every second day, you dont stand much of a chance of being there when the style comes in, let alone when the size comes in.

So I have asked one of my US scarfie girlfriends in New York to buy it for me from the US site. Lovely girl, she had no issues with this despite her very considered preference for Hermes (I love that girl!

Even with the extra leg of shipping (Zara to scarfie, scarfie to me) it comes in cheaper than if I bought it at the Sydney store. Love the US economy & love the exchange rate!

So no more stalking required!

Happy dance!

What I learned:

The comment made by my spy "everything Spain can push out" seems to be carried out in a specific way....instead of deliveries of the replenished stock of a particular style including some XS, some S, some M, some L & some XL....they tend to receive heaps of only some of the size range.

So for example, in one replenishing delivery, the store may receive 10 x XS & 10 x XL.....in the next delivery of the same style they may get 10 x L and 10 x S....or 10 x XL & 10 x XS (yes, again!) ie: there isnt an even delivery of each size in each drop. Further over time, there isnt an even delivery of each size either - its just what Spain pushes out.....that's life.....

In stalking the pink jacket, I have noticed this applies to replenished stock....I havent been able to figure out if there is a pattern in new drops (ie: items which are new to Sydney and are not merely replenishing stock which has already hit the floor). Stay tuned....

All photos from US Zara web site & all comments are the writer's opinions.