Thursday, April 25, 2013

Scarf tying - Step by Step - the basic double knot

Recent posts of "What I Wore" featured a "double knot".



The double knot used on a square silk scarf.

The double knot used on a cardigan waist tie.

The double knot is the most basic of all scarf ties and the beauty of it is that it looks neat, symmetrical and perfect.

Best of all, its very simple. Trust me on this. Once you understand the steps in the technique, its very easy. 

But before I show you how to tie, lets go back a few steps.

Scarf ties are many & varied. There are countless YOUTUBE videos on how to tie. My post is one millionth of the resources available and its in photo (not video) form.  

Due to the wealth of resources out there, I encourage you to explore the web for scarf tying.

So how do you navigate all those resources? Good question. 

For large rectangle scarves (& bulkier winter scarves), the best resource IMO is Wendy's Look book video. It shows 25 different techniques in a very entertaining format.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LYAEz777AU&list=PLF7D65AF9280A7B36&index=1

For silky square scarves, any Hermes video will do or anything in MaiTai's Picture book is excellent.

http://www.maitaispicturebook.com/

Together with Style into Action, these are the only resources you will need.

So lets get down to business.

Most silky square ties involved two steps:

Step 1: Turning a square scarf into a narrow ribbon. Fold the scarf into a ribbon shape about 3-4 cm wide (photos 1-4).

Step 2: Tying the "ribbon" into the desired knot. In this case, its the basic double knot (photos 5-9).

Starting with Step 1 (making the ribbon shape):

Take a silky square (any size will do) & lay it out flat with the bad side facing you/good side facing the table (or the floor). 

Photo 1: Take two diagonally opposite corners of the square scarf & fold as in photo 1.


Photo 1

If the scarf had fabric tag, make sure the corner with the tag is one of the corners you took hold (& preferably the tag corner is in the "corner under here"). This will make sure the tag is hidden & isnt flopping out.

Photo 2: Take each long end of the above & fold again so the edges meet along the middle. The scarf will now look like photo 2. 



Photo 2

Photo 3: Take the above scarf & fold it in half lengthways so you get the look in Photo 3.

Photo 3


Photo 4:  Take the above scarf & fold it in half again, lengthways, so you get what you see in Photo 4.



Photo 4

You have now created a long thin strip (2-3 cm, depending on the size of the scarf) which you can start to tie.

Now let's move to Step 2 (the actual knot):

Photo 5: Take the above & lay one end over the other, so that to end on top is the longer one. You know have a long end (on top) & a short end (underneath). See Photo 5.



Photo 5

Photo 6: Bring the longer end under & over the shorter end so you have a basic single knot like Photo 6.


Photo 6

Photo 7: Now you are going to do a second knot (hence the term "double knot").

The only "tricky" bit is that you will take the original long end & bring it under the short end (again) - as in Photo 7. 

Notice the original long end is showing as a horizontal ribbon end pointing toward the left of Photo 7. 


Photo 7

Photo 8: Now bring that same long end through the original basic single knot, so that the long end is now pointing toward the right of photo 8. This will look like what you see in photo 8.


Photo 8

Photo 9: You have now made the double knot but it is very loose. Clap, clap, clap. 

So you can now pull that long end through so the tie becomes tighter. In the process, you adjust the knot & the ends so they sit evenly & symmetrically - see photo 9.



Photo 9

If at this stage, after a bit of adjusting, if you notice that your ends are uneven (one is noticeably longer than the other), it means you made the original cross over in Photo 5 too long or too short. You need to play around with that original fold to get the ends even & its just trial & error (practice makes perfect!)

You are now ready to slip it over your head. With practice, you will be able to do this knot directly on your body.

The end result is what is on the original photo of this post. 

TIPS & TRICKS:

The key to this knot is that the long end goes over the short end twice - once in Photo 5 & again in Photos 7/8.

Remember: Long tied over short - twice.

For a multi patterned scarf, fold it so the best colours & sections of the print show up at the front of the finished product.

I like to have my best color showing on the knot itself - in this case, the blue part.

If the scarf has different patterns on each corner (a feature of expensive scarves), then do the original folding so your favourite corners are on show & your least favourite are tucked in. 

You can play around with the width of the original ribbon - I suggest a petite person sticks with the narrowest widths while a larger person can take a larger width.

This will work on any size square - if you are petite, go for something smaller than a 90 cm square - a pochette size 45 cm square looks fresh too. 


Miu Miu

Or you can wrap the scarf around your neck twice & tie the knot right on your neck, as in this photo following..




Here is the same knot again, but the scarf wasnt folded diagonally in Step 1. Can you guess how it was folded?




You can also play around with how large you make the neck opening. ie; the knot can sit lower or higher, depending on your clothing neckline, you mood & how large the scarf actually is! 

The scarf doesnt have to be silk, anything soft will work, even a fine cotton. Avoid anything stiff though.

If the scarf has the brand name woven into the fabric in one of the scarf's corners. Some people like to have that corner as one of the visible corners of the finished product. Its up to you whether you want to tuck in the brand name or not. 

Some people like to practice this in front of a mirror. Frankly I find that confusing. While I am learning, I like to get the technique right on the table, then to place the scarf on my neck. After a bit of practice you will be able to do the knot directly on your neck.

Tomorrow I will post a variation of this tie as seen in this photo




Happy tying & please ask any questions. 

Nina Proudman - blue suede boots are here



Last year Nina was wearing tan boots like they were going out of style. Remember these from Diana Ferrari?




As a boho babe, they looked great & we all loved them on Nina.

This year, the promotional video shows pregnant Nina in blue suede boots. That's a big change, yes?





Fashion Insider has advised that the brand is Tsumori Chisato. This is a Japanese designer who works out of Paris.
Her aesthetic very boho babe, just like NIna. Her prices are unfortunately quite designer (read: expensive).

Sadly the boots are out of stock (ebay, anyone?) and even if in stock, would have retailed for a minimum of $400 before shipping.

So Style into Action has tracked down an affordable alternative:

A NOVO pair, "Moskow"

In "micro suede" (read: synthetic) for $90.
The colour is "midnight".
The heel is a 7 cm wedge.









These are still available - so hurry & buy. 

Stylist's opinion

From a stylist point of view, unless you are swimming in money, you may not want to invest alot in blue suede boots. 

For two reasons:
1. Blue may not be the most classic of colours - hence your options are more limited than say a classic colour like tan or black.

2. Suede is very hard to look after & as a winter boot, will be subjected to alot of beating. A synthetic version like the Novo pair may be more appropriate. 

TIP: You can insert leather half soles & spray them with shoe deodoriser to manage the any build up of smells and moisture. Remember to also give them a break between wears - 24 hours is ideal.

Other brands?

Diane von Furstenberg has had a gorgeous blue suede boot "Parker". 



DVF's Parker boot

Sadly it is out of stock, as are many lower priced non designer options.

As other brands come on the market, Style into Action will keep you posted.

If you see any on the web in the mean time, please let Style into Action know via the Facebook page so that Nina fashion fans can also be aware of them.




Wednesday, April 24, 2013

What I Wore - Another Ms Hermes meets repeat basics

Yesterday I was harping about building your wardrobe around neutral basics & rotating accessories/printed pieces to create variety & oomph in your closet.

The people around you wont notice that you have worn the same neutral basics often, yet they will notice that you seem to be wearing "that scarf" or "those funky shoes" or that "loud printed blazer" again & again. 

Whilst we shouldnt care what others think, life is about perceptions and first impressions & you DO want to be perceived as smart, capable & forward thinking & NOT as stale or in repeat mode. 

Use your wardrobe to give the forward thinking impression & not the stale impression.

In that vein, I repeated yesterday's basics but changed my accessories.




Same jeans (Not Your Daughter's jeans) , same sweater (Zara), same bag.

Different rings/shoes/bracelets/scarf.

I felt like I was wearing something totally different to yesterday especially because the accessory which really stood out as different was close to my face.

The scarf

Hermes 90 cm silk square, Grand Manege
Tied in a slightly different way to yesterday.
See next post for tying technique.




Arm party

A whole bunch of different colours, deliberately in the same colours as the scarf.




Finger party

I keep a (long) olive tray which has all my silver rings.
It is in the bathroom where I do my hair & it is where they are best accessible before i walk out the door.

Today there is a chunky dome ring bought from a silver stand in a mall for around $80. 




There is a nice little test to confirm whether you suit chunky or dainty jewellery - I will show you in a later post. But I definitely come out as a chunky girl.

There is also a square ring in an anodised aluminium which came from ebay, Linda's Stuff for around $30. I have bought heaps from them & have mentioned them previously in What I Wore.

Since I was trying to fill a box with that seller, I also bought the silver version. If it works, buy multiples she preaches. 

The shoes

My intention was to wear these babies, Jil Sander bought about 5 years ago from David Jones in the city & rarely worn because I bought them too small, tried to wear them in (not very successfully) & hence couldnt return them nor re-sell them.




I see this style everywhere now, so I am trying to stretch them out again to take advantage of the trend. The size issue is only in the width at the toes - the length is OK (just).

So I brought a back up pair which got to see the light of day for quite a few hours - the Roberto Cavalli for Target ballet flats.



So that's the outfit. Hope you like.



Now for those scarf tying posts.....

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

What I Wore - Mr Zara basic meets Ms Hermes fancy



Today the weather was mild & I decided not to wear jacket. Since the ironing pile was quite large (understatement), I decided a sweater was appropriate. 

The sweater

Enter the Zara cotton one I bought a few days ago. I removed the cloth tag on the collar as it was scratchy. I have stored it with all my spare buttons & hang tags That's in case I have issues & need to consider a return, it helps if I have all the bits & show that I have looked after her.





$70 in 100% cotton in a chunky open moss stitch type knit (knitters, correct me if I ma wrong here, please) and a large cable down the centre front. 

The other feature that sold me this sweater was the vee neck. Since I love dark colours (like black) but dark colours (like black) dont love my face, having the vee brightens up the face due to the exposure of decoletage.

As it turns out the vee was the perfect breadth & depth to complement a Hermes scarf (or any 90 cm silky square.

SWEATER SLIMMING TIP: If you are bottom heavy, ensure your sweaters dont have a basque at the hem, or if they do, the ribbing on the basque doesnt come in narrower than the side seams. Otherwise your hips & thighs may look like a porky sausage end. Go for a straight side view. Always.



oops, she turned sideways when I wasnt looking.....

Notice also the split at the sides? It just helps to accommodate a pear's bottom half.

The jeans

The jeans almost dont rate a mention as you have met them in previous "What I Wore" posts.

They are a dark grey Not Your Daughter's Jeans in a straight leg.

The scarf

So far the outfit is basic pieces in dark colours. Not very exciting. The outfit needs a statement. I do that with jewellery and/or shoes/bag and/or a scarf or occasionally with a printed item of clothing.

Today, its a colourful silk scarf.

I chose a 90 cm silk square & did a basic double knot tie. Instructions in the next post (tomorrow).

Its a Hermes & I probably bought it from one of my collector friends, who for a while, were massive enablers of my collection. 

Its the New Orleans theme, which was re-issued for Katrina & the colourway is black with aqua accents. 

The aqua in this scarf sings on me. In fact this baby is what made me realise that I had moved from a winter to a summer. More on this later. 




Arm Party

I dont think you have met my elastic bracelet collection, have you?



The warm colours sit in an LV scarf box and the cool colours sit in a twin box.

Here they are open....




I have made at least half of these babies. 

The elastic bracelet obsession started about 5 years ago when Lisa Ho stores were selling Santos Wishes elastic bracelets in varying beads. they were great quality - the bead colour wouldnt scratch off & I especially liked that they were not mixed with any metals except the religious "wish" dangly bits. Since these dangly bits didnt rub directly on the skin, there was no unsightly tarnishing. 

I was buying them for a while, but at approx $70 per strand, the price annoyed me. Then I decided that all they were were clear elastic & beads, how hard can they be to make?

So I found the Bead Shop in Surry Hills (now only selling on line, but cheaper than when they maintained the shop front) and started making many colours. 

Even a genuine Swarovski band of beads would cost me around $20 to make when city stores were selling them for $60 odd. As for the beads, a typical cost would be $10 and it looked identical to the Santos Wishes.

Basically I stack heaps on each wrist in colours that complement or contrast with the outfit. Easy, cheap & cheerful. 




So I picked a bunch for one wrist & a bunch for the other wrist & off I went.

The rings



The chain ring is an Ann Demeulemeester, bought for a bomb from Assin in Paddington. I cant for the life of me eat or drink wearing it & I am so paranoid when I take it off to eat, I will forget it - so she get very limited outings with her over protective mum.

The multi square one is stainless steel Fossil, reasonably priced ($60?) I think, but if I bought it on line, it would have been even more reasonably priced.

The bag



I wear the same bag for 7 months or so, then rotate another.
Currently it's this kitchen sink toting 3.1 Phillip Lim which I bought from Belinda for around $350 & I LOVE it. 

However I had a few incidents today with this baby - I use the long shoulder strap on my right shoulder & as the sweater is a very open weave, I ended up with 3 massive (10 cm) pulls on the back right bum where the bag was rubbing against the bag hardware. Not happy. Trying to get the pulls back into the knit, but I think I will just have to settle for pushing then through the inside instead. 

Alternative bag?

Seriously I dont have the energy to add an alternative bag each day for the sake of the photos....but today I did find in my storage bins one of the most practical handbags on the planet - the Longchamp Le Pliage.

here it is folded up....


The basic version is made in a very durable nylon, leather handles & comes in every colour of the rainbow. Also in varying sizes & varying size straps. Great for travelling (lightweight). But the real beauty of it is no matter how much stuff you have in it, its stylish - after all, its French. 

They also do leather version & printed versions...huge industry. If you know someone travelling, get them to get you a duty free one. 

The shoes



Shoes are just over 20 years old. An Italian brand called Donzella which was heavily stocked at boutiques on the North Shore back then.

The shape is the slipper style which is in ATM & I quite like the bow even thought it is a bit schoolie. So I keep wearing them.

Notice they are navy & the rest of the outfit is black/grey?
Doesnt matter - I mix black & navy all the time. It works most of the time.

Moral of the story

If you like basics in neutral colours, build your wardrobe around them. 

"Neutrals" include black, navy, cream, white, burgendy, chocolate, grey, forest green...get the picture?

But make sure you have some "fancier" pieces (can be scarves, jewellery, shoes, bags, hats or even basics in prints or brights etc) to pretty up the neutral basics. 

"Fancy" can be in terms of colour, shape, cut, fabric, texture - anything that isnt "basic".

It actually works out cheaper to re-wear neutral basics & to change around the fancy bits so that you look current & up to date.

Plus, your friends & work colleagues WILL remember your fancy pieces - they WONT remember the neutral basics (trust me on this), so you can get more mileage from those neutrals by re-wearing them (& varying your fancy bits).

After all, you dont want to be remembered as the girl who always wears "that scarf", or "those shoes", or "that bag"!


 



Monday, April 22, 2013

What I Wore - Winter means cashmere


Winter is definitely here.
The sun may be out, but its cold.
Its time for cashmere.

Five times as warm as wool, never scratchy, it lasts forever (with gentle washing in wool wash). 

I never dry clean my cashmeres as dry cleaning solvents are bad for the fibres - they harden them & change their colour over time.

The scarf



A Luciano Barbera, Italian of course, 100% cashmere and a mens brand (& scarf). A classic design - rectangle, with cashmere rolled fringe ends. 

Bought from a designer warehouse in the Sydney CBD called Voi. I think I paid $150 and its worth every penny. Toasty & baby soft.

Inspired by this purchase, I then looked & found the same thing in a ladies brand - in black. 

The jeans





Not Your Daughter's Jeans in a dark grey. 
I think I got these in New York. 

TIP: To stop your grey or black jeans looking too "westie", dress them up - jewellery, heels, smart bag.

The sweater




This Giorgio Armani "Classico" sweater is 18 years old and is 100% cashmere in a varying width ribbing all over. It has short sleeves. It has never fit me previously (too big), but I hung onto it due to the fantastic quality. Fits like a glove now. 

I had purchased it from a designer recycled store in Double Bay which has notorious mark ups on its international labels. I would never even walk into that shop now, with the advent of ebay & on line buying opportunities. The only reason I bought it was because, back then, there was no secondary market available other than via bricks.

TIP: If you're buying Armani on ebay, the age of an item will help you to assess its value. In my experience, the older the item, the more chance there are issues (which the seller hasnt disclosed due to ignorance or deviousness). Hence to more likely you need to be on guard, ask questions etc than if you were buying a younger piece. 

Alot of sellers have no idea about age - but a brand fanatic will be able to determine the approx age not just by the style but by the tags on the item.



This narrow "Giorgio Armani A Milano Borgonuovo" tag which this top reveals its age. Also GA hasnt done anything in the "Classico" range for about 18 years.

The jacket




I bought this at the Sydney boutique for a hideously expensive amount of money. It is 70% cashmere and 30% silk. 

It has a wavy grey and navy stripe with the navy being  a pointelle type knit.

I tended to wear it to work with a navy pleated skirt as it has a school blazer feel about it. For some reason, as conservative as it was, I still got loads of compliments on it. I credit that to Mr Armani.

As far as the detail goes - & I am all about the detail - I love the functioning cuff buttons.  I also love the knitted bound button holes & how the binding is in navy & lines up with the navy stripes...too divine!





TIP: Even if you are not in the market for high end fashion, by examining high end clothes, you can get an understanding of the hallmarks of good design....and then look for some of those hallmarks at a lower price point. 

If those expensive stores intimidate you (& sometimes I think they go out of their way to do so, to keep that exclusivity), then take someone with you who can navigate the sales people for you - like me!!!

Its kind of like "reach for the stars so you'll fall in the sky".

Neck party





A Lovisa glassy/antiquey gold chunky necklace.
$25.
Normally I dont wear gold near my face, but this one called out. Plus the antiquey nature of the gold takes away from the yellow undertones to some extent.

The (gay) nurse at the hospital complimented me on this yesterday. Dripping in Armani, but he is a magpie & noticed the $25 necklace.

TIP: When trying on statement necklaces, jump around on the spot in the store to ensure it sits & stays flat. If not, you will spend time adjusting it & the look will be diminished.

Arm Party





A silver/gold plate necklace I got in India. 
I was stuck in the only large city without runway designer clothing (unless you call Esprit, Sisley & Ted baker designer), so I got to know all the boutiques which sold interesting jewellery very well.

Did you notice that the metal on the jacket (the buttons) was silver? All the other metal I wore was gold. To bring the two colours together, it helps to have one piece with mixed colours.

Enter bracelet.
It was very well priced despite being silver. 

Hand Party

I cant go without my rings.




On the bottom, a YSL dots ring in lapis & gold. I got this on ebay & stupidly paid more then RRP.

TIP: If there is anything I have learnt from Hermes scarf collection via ebay, its "watch, dont pounce" as everything comes around again & often at a cheaper price. 

On the top, a ManiaMania ring from The Corner Shop in Paddington. Reduced to 40% off. I just love how huge it is - serious dome weapon. 

BTW, here are the two YSL rings that have dominated the costume ring market in the last 5 years....they are available in many colours.



These babies are not mine unfortunately - taken from a web photo.


The shoes




Too lazy to find alternative shoes today.
These are See by Chloe and I got them from the Fitted for Work sale shop for $30. 

The reason I chose them for this outfit was because the zipper flowers have an antiquey gold look which complements the rest of my metals.

They also feed my need for height which comes from a sturdy heel

So has this inspired you? Given you some tips?
How would you change it to suit your style?